I only found the new Krylon paint cans at my retailing store so here's another set of questions. How necessary is the clear coat might sound silly but in my current situation, I am quite curious? Would polishing over an acrylic lacquer give it a false sense of dryness obviously polish would happen after I personally feel the acrylic lacquer is "dry"?
Are there other suggested painting methods currently I have a sand scuffed body and neck? Aug 2, 6. IS the Minwax black label a nitro lac and will it darken over time or is full of uv inhibitors? Aug 2, 7. I hear that the Minwax black label is nitro.
I believe only Deft uses the UV inhibitors. Aug 2, 8. Aug 2, 9. Age: 69 Posts: 22, Not going to say it was easy.
But it can be done. I shot it thin over white primer. Let it dry for a good moth. Then let it dry some more. Then let that dry as long as I could. I would have used a lacquer in a heart beat, but I couldn't find it. I guess I live in the wrong part of the country.
Aug 3, Thanks all for the help! I think I have an idea as to what I am going to do. Next topic: My first tele!!! It will darken. Aug 4, Thanks Red no lets go hunting. Will poly work OK? Aug 5, Hopefully both, but I'm primarily asking with regards to electric at the moment, because I'm envisaging the first acoustic I build will never leave the house and so I can probably go with something less hard wearing and easier to apply.
Plus I'm thinking more of a natural wood feel for that rather than a gloss finish. Most finishes look bad until polished. I've finished a solid body bubinga wood guitar with only Danish Oil which fills the grain and also dries quite hard so that any kind of top coat can be applied but it's not essential for the home player to have a top coat in my opinion. I've seen guitars with only a wax finish which look very nice. Obviously a professional builder would want something harder wearing. One big advantage of Danish Oil is that it's easy to touch up scratches, just rub down and re apply.
There is a lot of flatting needed so that you almost take it back to the bare wood leaving only the filled grain. Then apply final coats. A good instrument polish brings out a shine without being cheap and tacky looking. There's no shortage of information out there on how to apply different sorts of finishes Brad Angove and Highline guitars have videos covering various sorts, and Derek from Big D guitars is the man when it comes to hand-applied wood stains, and there are others.
But the issue I have is that since most of them are based in North America, they tend to be using products which are not available in the UK, at least with the same brand name. So while their instructional videos are useful, their recommendations for specific products don't help much.
And there seems to be a dearth of options from specialist luthier suppliers in the UK, who you would hope would have at least vetted the products they stock to be suitable. So hence me asking what people have actually used here.
It's not really the process I'm asking about, I've watched a hundred videos on that probably, rather people's experiences with products I can actually buy here. Some seem to get a good finish from wipe on products to get deep gloss until they show the guitar from an angle and you can see that it is far from flat.
My home builds have used Liberon Finishing Oil as recommended in the online course - after 5 or 6 coats and a gentle application of micro-crystalline wax I have a pleasing sheen. I've only ever used oil-type finishes - though I've experimented with a few different ones including the standard Liberon finishing oi, Tru-oil, Crimson's finishing oils, and various Osmo products.
I use Spray Max 2k and 1k rattle cans. Sprays well and easy to level-sand and polish. It's the stuff Brad Angove uses most of the time in his rattle can video's.
These are available in the UK. Wear a good quality mask and gloves at all times The Solarez products look like a great solution for the home luthier Since they don't need specialist UV equipment sunlight will do or spray equipment though they have versions that work with spray guns if you want that , there are different options depending on your priorities with regards to hardness, odour and workability, and they are reasonably priced, unfortunately you can't buy them here and shipping from the states is a bit nuts as I indicated in my first post.
I did suggest to Crimson Guitars in an email last year that they should look at "I can't believe it's not lacquer" in the hope that they might choose to become an importer, but that's not happened yet so I'm guessing it won't. Wonder if it's something markbailey would be interested in investigating - if it's genuinely a useful product for guitar finishing that'd be suitable for us to use Forum Icons: Forum contains no unread posts Forum contains unread posts.
Please allow days for delivery - if you need it faster, please message us. Skip to toolbar Log in Register. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. Rattle Can Clear Coat. Share More sharing options Followers 0. Reply to this topic Start new topic.
Recommended Posts. SMellmo Posted October 19, Posted October 19, Maybe it's just me but it seems that most rattle can clear coats are poor quality. Otherwise i guess i'll try to get some REAL automotive clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options AlGeeEater Posted October 19, Posted October 19, edited.
Ok i just realized 2 months is 60 days I think Madien had a problem with one of his guitars being soft or something when he sprayed in high humidity? Edited October 19, by AlGeeEater. Best to spray several thin coats, letting them harden completely, and fine-sand in between. Maiden69 Posted October 20, Posted October 20, SMellmo Posted October 20, Southpa Posted October 20, Posted October 20, edited. Edited October 20, by Southpa.
Librero Posted October 21,
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